Toyota Yaris owners have reported 12 problems related to brake antilock wheel speed sensor under the service brakes category. The most recently reported issues are listed below.
Also please check out the statistics and reliability analysis of Toyota Yaris based on all problems reported for the Yaris. Brakes: left side rear brake shoe adjuster bar part replacement does not fit on brake. Dealer and pep boys both tried to replace it and the parts do not match, a right side adjuster bar had to be used in its place. Repairs were attempted several times over a period of approximately 10 months from Nov to sept Speed sensor: I was driving 65 mph on the interstate in the middle lane when the speed sensor stopped working, the car acted like it was in neutral and I could not get over or continue driving it.
Had to get to the side of the road, very dangerous situation. Speed sensor replaced and problem was fixed. This problem happened in Augustmileage was approximately 75, at time.
See all problems of the Toyota Yaris. As I was driving this past winter the abs required maintenance and parking brake came illuminated at the same time.
I thought it might have been a frozen connector since the winter has been very cold and bad this year. The speed sensor pig tail and the rear wheel bearing went out. This part was coroded and full of dirt and grime.
Even the wires were disengrated. This has happened to other Yaris owners to that I have read on here. This should be a recall. Aproximate cost of fixing this problem is Break and abs lights on and Toyota knew this was caused by speed sensor corrosion. Which disabled the abs system. Called the dealer but they asked me to call Toyota. I called Toyota, they said problems were not the defect and refused to provide any solutions, asked me to dealer for repair.
The Toyota case number is Rear abs speed sensors corrode and malfunctioned causing the "brake" and "abs" lights display on the instrument cluster, thus minimizing braking efficiency while driving. Internet full of customers with similar problems on Toyota Yaris cars. The contact owns a Toyota Yaris. While driving approximately 5 mph, the abs and brake lights illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where the technician stated that the driver side and passenger side speed sensors in the wheel bearings were corroded and would need to be replaced.View User's Garage.
Hi everybody. I've been at this for more than an hour! I can't get the rear ABS sensor plugs off the back of the hub. I've looked in the factory repair manual, and it shows sticking a screwdriver into the little hole at the bottom, and says "disengage the claw" I figure Tamago would know exactly how to do this, but he hasn't responded to PMs.
Last edited by Doc Zaius; at PM. Sounds like the hub needs more gentle persuasiontry a bigger hammer with some lubing agent. Are you doing the disc brake conversion. You can try pushing the hubs off if it has 2 threaded holes for bolts.
I'm sure it does. Makes it easier if you start with the hub in the right spot. Rotate hub to the spot with the least amount of drag against the shoes.
Good luck. Thanks for the responses, guys. I know the drum cover? And yeah, I hope some penetrating agent will help I'll let it soak overnight if I can't get it off soon. And no, not a rear disc conversion I wish!!
It should come right off with some lube and bfh, also i have two hubs with abs for sale. Originally Posted by 1NZYaris1. Originally Posted by Shroomster. They make special hose pinch pliers that pinch the rubber portion of the brake line. If you dont have those, small vice grips should be okay.
This will keep brake fluid from constantly leaking out. If you dont or do the job very quickly you are going to drain the master cylinder then you might end up having to remove it and bench bleeding it to get all the air out. When you are done with the job crack open both the bleeder screws for the rear drums and fill the master cylinder all the way full and let the vehicle gravity bleed itself.
Pretty much once you see fluid leaking from the back wait another 10 more minutes. Then all the air should be out and then close them up.
You wont need to bleed the front brakes since no air should have got in there if the master never got low. Another tip is leave one drum assembly on while removing the other so you can refer to it cause incase you forget how it all goes back together. Find More Posts by YarisSedan. I hate people like you xbgod because your the reason I don't come to this board.In this guide, you will find instructions on how to replace the rear wheel bearing on Toyota vehicles.
This guide applies to front-wheel-drive Toyota vehicles. It does not apply to all-wheel-drive models. It only applies to vehicles that have the ABS wheel speed sensor integrated into the wheel bearing.
You need bearing removal tool on Toyota 4Runner, Tundra, Tacoma if you need to replace the rear wheel bearing. The connector can corrode and trigger the ABS light. We pull together the knowledge of experts and feedback from members like you to create the best possible resource. Symptoms Noise - an early sign that your Toyota wheel bearing is starting to fail and will need to be replaced soon.
Place the transmission in Park. If you have manual transmission place it in first gear. Place wheel chocks on the back and front to lock the front wheels. You need to prevent the vehicle from rolling. Loosen the lug nuts but do not remove them yet. Raise the vehicle and secure it with jack stands.
Remove the lug nuts and take off the rear wheel. Spray penetrating oil on all the bolts. Disconnect the ABS sensor connector. Remove the brake caliper guide bolts.
Disconnect the parking brake cable. Use a breaker bar to remove the brake caliper bracket bolts. Remove the rotor from the wheel hub. If you plan on reusing the rotor, use a rubber hammer to remove it. Remove all four bolts that secure the wheel hub. These bolts may be difficult to remove especially if they are rusted. Use a breaker bar and spray penetrating oil. Allow the penetrating oil to work for at least 15 min.
Remove wheel bearing together with the ABS sensor. Use sandpaper or wire brush to remove any present rust from the wheel hub mounting area. Install the wheel hub bearing and torque bolts to specification. See the typical values below. Install the rotor on the wheel hub. Install the brake caliper bracket and torque the bolts to specification. Rember to use thread locker on the bolts.
Install the brake pads, brake caliper and torque the brake caliper bolts to specification. Install the wheel and torque the lug nuts after you lower the vehicle.
Torque Specifications Typical torque specifications. These values may vary between models.I have had to change the rear wheel bearings on my Yaris D4D this weekend. There was no radial play in the bearings, but they were making a droning noise at certain road speeds and felt gritty when the hub was rotated with the road wheels removed. I ordered replacement parts from Toyota, which came to five hundred pounds for two new hubs including VAT.
The price came as a shock but you cannot just change the bearings, the whole hub including the speed sensor for the ABS must be replaced. The Haynes manual states that the hub assembly can be removed by backing off the hub fixing bolts and striking the said bolt heads with a hammer. I have seen a few posts on this site reference problems with the backing plate for the drum brakes coming off with the hub assembly when impacting the four rear fixing bolts with a hammer and drift.
I had exactly the same problems on Saturday. My elder brother, who is a very good mechanic, had a good idea which worked very well. He removed two opposite wheel bolt studs from the hub by striking them from the front with a hammer. They are retained within the bores of the road wheel stud mounting plate via splines on the outer diameter of the studs.
He then put two long M12 bolts through the holes, with an M12 nut and washer on each bolt. The nut and washers were on each bolt between its threaded end which was touching the backing plate and the road wheel stud plate so that the washer via the nut was hard up against the rear side of the road wheel stud plate.
The bolts were in the nine and three o clock positions and nicely missed the brake mechanism. This procedure worked very well and kept the backing plate in position. The car has done just overmiles. I thought the price was a bit top end, but when you see the full hub assemblies it does not seem too bad. It is a great shame the ABS speed sensor cannot be re-used as this would bring the price down.
Bearing in mind its a safety critical component it made sense to acquire the original part with Toyotas quality assurance. Nice tip, thanks for the info!! Ive a carine e withmiles and only ever changed 1 rear wheel bearing to date. Ive an old dear with a yaris like yours, she would collapse in a heap if i quoted that price but what can you do, thats todays prices. When I were a lad I'm puzzled about the backing plate coming off bit.
I replaced both rear hubs with scrappy ones. The originals were tight and partially seized on i suspect. I hammered the bolts as the OP did and eventually the hubs came out.
This left the brake backing plates swinging loose but not by much as they were partially held by the rigid brake pipes. They did spring about a little but i didn't interfere with them and inserted the replacement hubs asap. Tightened the bolts down and was done and dusted quite quickly actually.
Once i had freed the original hubs I can see why it's a little odd to replace the whole hub but the labour required to replace bearings and ensure they are correctly set may be more than the cost of replacing a whole hub in a fraction of the time. The backing plate for the drum brakes has a central bore which is a location fit over a machined boss on the hub which is approxiametly 70mm in diameter by 15mm length.
Looking at the materials used for the construction of the hub casting and backing plate, I would say they are made from a non corrosion resistant carbon steel and can therefore corrode. My car is five years old and the hub OD was stuck to the backing plate bore via corrosion. The prodedure I described i. This could transfer a considerable amount of impact load onto the rigid brake pipes, for which they are not designed or substantiated to withstand.
Ultimately if this occurs, you still end up with the hub removed from the rear suspension, but with a backing plate stuck to it which requires removal via another process. This is a good tip and it might have been my post that gave you a bit of info about the removal in the first place. I fitted one to the wife's yaris and it is working like a dream. I have a second one ready for the next time I need it.By KeithMay 10, in Yaris Club.
I was wondering if anyone can recommend where to get one from, as there seems to be so many different prices for the same part. After much hassle I got a refund and ordered another from a different supplier. I fitted that one and there was play in it, again more resistance to giving me a refund. Different makes but both faulty. It is a very easy job although the 4 shoulder securing bolts need a long socket extension to get at and soaking in penetrating Oil helps to free off these very tight bolts.
You need a tiny flat screwdriver to push down a plastic tab that holds in the sensor to the hub. Good luck with it. Sorry for the late reply. Thanks very much for your detailed response which is a great help to me and no dounbt saved me a lot of messing about.
I will order the wheel bearing from where you got your third and final one from. I will have a go at doing it myself, but i bet i won't be able to undo the bolts holding hub in place because of rust.
It is best to remove the nut at the bottom of the shock absorber and then just push the shocker sideways out of the way. You can then get at all the bolts easily. One of mine I used a not so good ring spanner at first and rounded off the nut head on one of them. I got out of that by hammering on a size smaller socket. If a bolt head became rounded you could alway use a blunt chisel or screwdriver and hammer it bearing on the flange which is afair bit bigger than the nuts.
Only 4 nuts and good access with the shocker loose. Good luck with it, dont forget the penetrating Oil it does make a difference. The bolts that hold the hub bearing in place are accessed from the front of the hub between the brake shoes on my Yaris.
I removed the brake drum and removed the hub bearing bolts without much trouble. It took me an hour to free the hub bearing from the car though.
There was one small area where i could place a socket behind the flange of the hub and against the disc holding the brake shoes. I then wedged a chisel between the top of the socket and the back of the flange and hit the inner side of the chisel with a hammer the hammer swinging from inside the wheel arch area outwards. That knocked the hub bearing away a little on one side, so then after a few hits downwards on the wheel bolts, the hub fianlly fell free. I bought the hub bearing from the seller you recommended and its fine.
I am pleased that you got it done ok but I am totally confused about your holding bolts direction. The bearing hub bolt holes are threaded and the hub fits against the back plate that carries the brake shoes so how can bolt heads from the brake shoe side tighten up unless someone has fitted ordinary bolts with nuts on the back other side of the brake plate.
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The proper studs have a smaller head for a 10mm socket but then have a bigger forged flange and would not be longer enough to take a nut ont he back. The outer flange that holds the actual wheel bolts has holes in it, so you can turn the flange to line these holes up with the bolts further back that are holding the hub bearing in place.
The bolts go through the threaded holes in the hub bearing, through the disc plate that holds the shoes and into threaded holes in the wishbone.
This video here is about brake shoes, but its the same model Yaris that i have and in places throughout the video you can see the 14mm bolt heads that hold the hub bearing in place.
The bolt heads have two lines that look like a number 11 on them:. Thanks for that I was puzzled- different to mine as the suspension mount on mine has clearance size holes for the bolts and the bolts go through from the back to bolt up into the tapped holes in the hub.By TravelbuddyMay 9, in Yaris Club.
When braking at a low speed the sensor thinks the offside front wheel has locked up, so the ABS kicks in. Is it an easy job to replace the sensor? Any tips would be much appreciated. The problem with the ABS sensors at the front is that the housing in the hub becomes very rusty forged steel and they can be difficult to remove without breaking them. The front ones have a single small bolt holding them in position and you will be lucky not to shear the bolt.
I would make a start with a good dose of penetrating Oil not WD40 for a few days. A flat screwdriver tappped at the joint with a hammer will part the sensor from the hub. You may just find the ring in the hub is totally fouled with rust chippings and this is stopping the sensor working which is what I found, but as I had bought new sensors I replaced them anyway. You will see left and right sensors but they are both the same apart from the small bracket that fits on the brake pipe stanchion, which is handed but you can re-use this.
I have replaced 3 of my sensors trying to find the fault! Good luck with it, just try and be gentle with the securing bolt. I ask this as the garage who quoted for doing the repair said they would need to charge me for 2 types of sensor i. As far as I recall there was no difference in the part numbers for the French or Japan built sensors.
It only involves jacking up the car front nearside, blocking it up for safety. Whatever you do it is still worth soaking in penetrating Oil as it will save you money and time. You do not have to jack up the car to soak the bolt just put it onto full right lock and you can get at it to put on penetrating Oil from a can. As mentioned above, equip yourself with some penetrating Oiland if possible, soak it up the day before, or few hours before, if you can get to it without jacking the car 2x.
And be careful when unscrewing, do not force it, but try to wiggle it slowly until it starts coming out. The garage charging such a hefty sum and refusing any responsibility regarding the replacement is a bit cheeky, considering the price for such a simple job.
My thanks to Sproutdreamer, Furtula and Parts-King for your feedback. I've now taken the step of contacting the Ebay supplier with details of our Yaris and are awaiting their confirmation that they are able to supply the correct part. Need-less to say I will post another update once I've undertaken the work. Fingers crossed and once again thank you for your support. Hopefully yours is better. I think you'll find you have to give the mix a damn good shake just before applying it as the two liquids aren't miscible.
Seems it's the best penetrating fluid known. I also have a container of plus-gas which I try first. I've never had any ATF to try the alternative. I put the two into a small jar and shook it like heck.By sproutdreamerOctober 4, in Yaris Club.
Our newly acquired old Yaris has started to show the ABS amber warning light intermittently. It self tests ok at start up but has come on and gone off a cpouple of times now.
My thinking more likely hoping is that this is probably a loose connector or a dirty or faulty wheel speed sensor. I have a OBD11 code reader somewhere and an old laptop. Cannot remeber what the software was or whether the detail on the diagnostics went down to the detail of individual wheel sensors?
I hope the Yaris is easier? Follow ABS cable from sensor at wheel to first connection under bonnet. Then test on sensor side the resistance. As it is intermittent, could be dirt between sensor and ABS ring mounted on drive shaft. Warning - take great care. Handle wire attached to sensor with care. Been there don e it on mark 1 Yaris. I am going to try my OBD11 code reader and see what that throws up as it is wet and cold and not the weather for crawling around under a car. The problem is that as an intermittent fault it will probably show ok but there may be fault codes lying on the computer software showing which will show which sensor if it is a sensor is faulty.
I have charged up my old laptop with the diagnostic software, found the code reader - but where is the OBD11 diagnostic socket on a 04 Yaris? The Haynes manual shows a picture of a code reader in tools and equipment but does not tell where the socket is located. Found the OBD11 socket to the right of the wheel under the clip off cover that houses a bank of fuses - why does the Haynes Manuals not show that, but then they are a bit rubbish anyway!
Ran the diagnostics and the software I was using ran all the checks and said everything was ok and there were no fault codes left in the system. I recently had an intermittent fault on my Yaris with an ABS light on, the system will do a check at start up for any short or open circuit on the harness and the sensor. I believe on a Mk 2 Yaris mine is a and the sensor resistance is approx 6M ohms. On a Mk 1 and early corolla is around 1K to 2K ohms.
I also have found that the easiest way to confirm if the harness from the sensor to the ECU is to measure the voltage on the connector pins to ground chassis. Measure with the ignition position in position 2. My yaris ABS fault was fixed after confirming that the speed sensor in the wheel hub was faulty.
I obviously did the diagnostic to save money You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a link instead. Clear editor. Upload or insert images from URL. Yaris Club Search In.
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Posted October 4, I have a OBD11 code reader somewhere and an old laptop with diagnostic software installed but it is about 7 years since I used it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites. Posted October 5,